Pakistan’s hottest rock band Junoon plays in Srinagar, Kashmir on Sunday, in what must rate as the biggest music show in decades in one of the world’s most militarised regions.

Junoon, or madness in Arabic, play in a heavily fortified auditorium on the banks of the Dal lake, but its Sufi music and soaring guitar riffs resonate far beyond, given that this is where Sufism, a form of Islamic mysticism, struck roots in the subcontinent.

The idea of a Pakistani band playing in the centre of Kashmir, which has been at the heart of 60 years of unremitting hostility between the neighbours, is itself remarkable, a testament to the change that is quietly taking place.