WAGAH CROSSING, INDIA-PAKISTAN BORDER -- -- If nations rose and fell according to their camp quotient and funny hats, then these rivals would still be locked in a total stalemate.
Most every evening for nearly 60 years, a peculiar ritual has unfolded here on what has been one of the world's hottest borders. As twilight approaches and the gates are about to close between India and Pakistan, the guards on either side face off in an elaborate show of martial bravado and chest-puffing that nonetheless includes that most basic of fraternal gestures: the handshake.
Hundreds of spectators from both countries cheer as their men in uniform strut, goose-step and stamp their feet like impatient bulls. Individual guards on either side break ranks and power-walk toward one another as if to collide head-on, but stop just short of the line dividing their homelands and glower fiercely through thei
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